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Of the four main skin types, Oily skin can be the hardest and most frustrating to treat. It is an on going battle of balance and you sometimes have to treat and care for more than one skin type depending on each zone of the face. First off it is important to properly identify oily skin. Oily skin has an excess production of sebum, a fatty substance that lubricates the skin. The surface of oily skin can appear thicker as dead skin cells are trapped and clogged in the follicle due to this sebum. It is characterized by larger pores and open comedones (blackheads). There are several myths concerning oily skin, first being that large pores are solely caused by poor hygiene. Unfortunately this is untrue. Pore size is genetically determined. While poor hygiene can lead to more blackhead clogs that expand the follicle wall, making them larger, it is much more likely that you have your parents to blame for your initial large pore size. Another huge misconception concerning oily skin and black heads in particular, is that the dark color of the clog is from dirt. While the clog contains debris from dirt, it is also comprised of dead skin cells and sebum. It is the oxidation of this sebum that gives black heads their color. Lastly greasy foods do not cause oily skin. While a lack of nutrition can lead to poor skin health, having a slice of greasy pizza at noon will never be the cause of your T-zone oil slick by three o’clock. To the contrary,  eating foods high in Omega- fatty acids such as wild caught fatty fish, avocados and tree nuts can improve the health of oily skin by balancing moisture levels and reducing inflammation. So we have identified skin type and cleared up myths about oily skin, now what? A Proper skincare routine is crucial to the on going fight against oily skin. As mentioned earlier caring for oily skin involves maintaining balance. While it is important to remove excess oil from the skin’s surface, you still need to maintain the skin’s hydration level. It is an unfair truth but skin can be oily and yet still be dehydrated, as dehydration refers to a lack of water, not a lack of oil. These are my healthy skin care tips for oily skin: I recommend using a salicylic acid or a beta-hydroxy acid facial cleanser at least twice a day. Before washing your face, wash your hands with soap and water to remove bacteria. Removing bacteria and germs will prevent them from being deposited onto the skin surface and into the follicle. If you are already dealing with oily skin, why deal with acne too? Exfoliation is also important, as a buildup of cells are trapped by the excess sebum and can perpetuate the cycle. But never over exfoliate or over strip your skin of this protective sebum, as your skin may fight back and produce even more oil to repair its barrier. Remember to moisturize with an oil free moisturizer containing a broad spectrum SPF. Oily skin needs the hydration and some skin care ingredients such as glycolic acid and salicylic acid can make the skin more sensitive to the already damaging effects of the sun’s radiation. Weekly or bi-weekly masks containing clay may also help draw extra oil away from the skin, but unless your entire face is oily keep this mask use to the t-zone only as to not disturb surrounding healthy skin. Leave the squeezing to a professional. We are trained to properly extract blackheads. Improper technique can lead to scaring, broken capillaries and breakouts. So please step away from the 10x magnification mirror. Oil blotting papers are a great way to rid the skin of shine and can be easily stored and used throughout the day. Has your makeup ever become a scary darker color as the day wears on? This is also caused by sebum oxidation, so a foundation a shade or two lighter than your skin may be helpful. Just use your correctly matched shade around the perimeter and contour of your face. While all this information may leave you feeling like you will never win the battle against oil, there is one positive note worth mentioning to lift the spirits of us oily skin sufferers - Oily skin appears more youthful, seems to age slower and shows less fine lines and wrinkles over time because the sebum prevents loss of water in the moisture barrier. Who wouldn’t want to trade a little shine for one less visible wrinkle?   Blog Written by askderm's in house Esthetician Chantal Monique Chantal Monique is a NYS licensed Esthetician and Makeup Artist. She has 7 years experience in skin care and makeup artistry. Her specialties include makeup application and facial treatments, which were featured on ABC's Wife Swap. Chantal also has a background in the Fine Arts. With the unique combination of her education as well as the desire to help people feel beautiful, Chantal provides expert skin care knowledge for our customers as well as the must have ingredients and trending looks. With an ever growing portfolio and clientele askderm is excited to be teamed up with Chantal for future blogs, informational videos and skin care tips!

When it comes to skincare, many people have misconceptions on what their true skin type really is. I have had clients who have combination skin believe they had oily skin and would use harsh products that would not only dry out their face but make their sebaceous glands work on overload and give them even oilier skin to make up for the oil they had been attempting to dry out.  I have included the basic guidelines for figuring out your skin type and the tricks for the specific skin types should be in addition to a normal skin care routine for everyone.   Regardless of your skin type, you should always: Cleanse your face morning and night Apply eye cream morning and night Use a lightweight moisturizer in the morning and a thicker cream at night Always apply a broad spectrum UVA/UVB SPF 30+ whenever going outdoors Drink lots of water to keep not only yourself hydrated but your skin Tone your skin not only morning and night but throughout the day as needed Never go to bed in your makeup              Normal Skin Those very fortunate people with a normal skin type don’t have to worry about having too much oil or skin that is too dry since their skin is ‘just right’.  They can use any products and have no skin sensitivities or redness.  With their skin having very few imperfections, they are fortunate to have not only pores that are barely visible, but they usually have beautiful, radiant skin.   Some tricks to try: Follow a normal skincare routine Always keep your skin moisturized Keep hydrated       Oily Skin People with oily skin seem to have a ‘thicker’ looking complexion.  Due to their sebaceous glands creating a lot of excess oil, those with oily skin will have larger pores, shiny skin and issues with clogged pores.  Blackheads and pimples affect the skin leaving an overall dull appearance.  Heat and humidity, hormones, birth control and even genetics can lead to oily skin but there are ways to help control the production of oil. Some tricks to try: Cleanse skin with a gentle cleanser Use oil free products Use a clay mask once a week to absorb the excess oils Blot excess oil for approximately 10 seconds each area throughout the day. Use an alcohol free toner You still need to moisturize so use lightweight, oil free moisturizers Keep hydrated       Dry Skin Dry skin can be brought upon using too much indoor heating, taking long baths and hot showers, the weather, hormonal changes and even genetics.  Those that suffer from dry skin usually have skin that feels very tight due to the lack of moisture, as well as rough and inflamed. Their complexion seems duller and may have red, itchy patches that cause them discomfort. Although oil helps the skin with signs of aging, those with dry skin will have more visible lines and wrinkles.   Some tricks to try: Use oil based products Only use gentle cleansers and soaps Avoid foaming cleansers as they usually tend to dry those with drier skin even more Use a thick moisturizer or cream after showering and bathing Keep hydrated       Sensitive Skin Those suffering from sensitive skin must deal with their skin flushing red quickly with different products or temperatures which can cause embarrassment and discomfort.  When those with sensitive skin try new products that their skin doesn’t agree with, their skin often burns, stings and can even swell.  Due to the intense sensitivities, skin also may itch and flake. Some tricks to try: Avoid direct sunlight Keep hydrated Use gentle products with little or no fragrances Keep your skin moisturized Always test products on a small area to make sure no reactions occur     Combination Skin Combination skin is when you not only have dry areas on your face, but you also have oily spots as well.  Your T-Zone which includes your chin, nose and forehead tend to have oil and shine where as your cheeks and other areas seem to be dry and flaky.  Your T-Zone will usually have larger pores as well as blackheads from the excess oil and due to the different needs of the different areas, multiple products typically will do the trick. Some tricks to try: Use different products on the areas …ie: oil-free products on your T-Zone while using creams on your dry areas. Gently blot your T-Zone throughout the day for 10 seconds each area to rid of excess oils Keep hydrated Use a clay mask once a week only on your T-Zone       Acne Prone Skin People with oily skin seem to have a ‘thicker’ looking complexion and are more prone to breakouts.  Due to their sebaceous glands creating a lot of excess oil, those with oily skin will have larger pores, shiny skin and issues with clogged pores.  Blackheads and pimples affect the skin leaving an overall dull appearance.  Heat and humidity, hormones, birth control and even genetics can lead to oily skin but there are ways to help control the production of oil. Some tricks to try: Find products specifically for acne Use oil free products Moisturizers that are oil free and lightweight should be applied Wash your face gently avoiding using washcloths that are most likely to open up pustules. Keep hydrated Your skin changes with hormones, weather, medication as well as age, so your skincare needs change as well.      Blog Written by askderm's Guest Esthetician  Stephanie Ivonne is a New Jersey licensed Esthetician.  Her fun-loving, outgoing personality will shine through her product selections & reviews to help you discover the hottest skincare and beauty products. When Stephanie is not scouring the internet for the next hot skincare product, she is a mother to two wonderful biological children, a dedicated foster mom and is devoted to her husband of 13 years.